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Echeveria subrigida (B.L.Rob. & Seaton) Rose ex Britton & Rose
Bull. New York Bot. Gard. 3: 10. 1903
- Echeveria subrigida (B.L.Rob. & Seaton) Rose ex Britton & Rose
- Cotyledon subrigida B.L.Rob. & Seaton
- Echeveria angusta Poelln.
- Echeveria palmeri Rose ex Britton & Rose
- Echeveria rosei A.Nelson & J.F.Macbr.
ENGLISH: Fire and Ice Echeveria, Red Edge Echeveria
Description: Echeveria subrigida cv. Fire and Ice is a large, very attractive, rosette-forming succulent plant that forms up to 22.5 cm tall and up to 45 cm wide rosettes of wide spade-shape, silvery-blue leaves that are deeply channeled and have smooth margins that often are highlighted with pink or rose tones.
The difference between the selection 'Fire and Ice' and the standard Echeveria subrigida is the brighter purple-red margin of the leaves. In late spring into mid-summer appear the heavy, upright stalks bearing coral-pink flowers that are orange inside with red nectaries.
Subspecies, varieties, forms and cultivars of plants belonging to the Echeveria subrigida group
- Echeveria cante Glass & Mend.-Garc.: Has a greater number of farinose rather than glaucous to pruinose leaves, which are narrower and thicker as well as generally longer than those of E. subrigida.
- Echeveria palmeri Rose ex Britton & Rose
- Echeveria subrigida (B.L.Rob. & Seaton) Rose ex Britton & Rose: produces rosettes tapered very white-glaucous leaves margined in red, grows to 60 cm in diameter and as high over time, the leaves have often rippled edges. Distribution: Hidalgo, San Luis Potosi, Guanajuato, Queretaro.
- Echeveria subrigida cv. Fire and Ice: has silvery-blue leaves with bright purple red margins. Garden origin.
Cultivation and Propagation: Echeveria subrigida is a summer-growing and relatively easy plant thought not the easiest of the echeverias. It makes great potted specimens.
Soil: Use a very porous soil, which will allow quick drainage.
Repotting: If potted, repot them preferably in the spring, if their roots become cramped. Generally, they should be repotted every other year in order to provide fresh soil. However, this doesn't necessarily mean they'll need larger containers. Fill about a quarter of the pot with broken crocks, gravel, etc. to promote good drainage. After repotting, do not water for a week or more. Use pot with good drainage. Eventually, as the plant becomes mature grow it slowly, and adopt a new repotting period, using intervals of every 2 - 3 years. Additionally grow it under drier conditions or with stronger sunlight.
Fertilization: Slow release fertilisers with a low to moderate nitrogen content are adequate for the spring and summer growing seasons, and additional fertiliser applications would not required until spring.
Exposure: It can tolerate sun to shade but - generally speaking - the more light a plant gets the better it will display its colours and shape. However, when moving plants from lower light conditions into full sun, be wary of sun scorch, most easily avoided by ensuring plants are well-watered before moving them on a cloudy day.
Watering: They can tolerate extended dry periods and survive drought without the need for watering, but they will grow stronger if they receive adequate moisture during their growing season, amd never allowing the plant to remain waterlogged (root rot sensitive).
Ventilation: Good air movement is important for minimising pest and disease risks, and avoiding excessive humidity in cool winter conditions is important to successfully growing Echeveria in the nursery environment.
Hardiness: It can tolerate light frosts, but it is best overwintered at 5-10 °C.
With the cooler autumn temperatures tending to make their foliage colours become more intense than those of the active summer growing season.
Pest & disease: Aphids like this plant (and all flowering Echeveria).
Maintenance: Remove older dead leaves that build up at the base.
Propagation: Usually by seeds, but If the plant is repotted some of the bottom leaves can be removed, in order to attempt leaf propagation, it is also a common practice to collect the leaves on the flower stem. However this is not one of the easiest species to root, as many such cuttings will dry out without producing a plantlet, but with perseverance it is likely to get a few new plants.
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